Turkmenistan has only about 8000 tourists per year, the visa procedure is not quite the easiest. We had a transit visa for five days. On arrival our car was given a GPS tracker and we a map, we should not leave the planned route.
Directly behind the border we reached the capital Ashgabat. The ambassador of Turkmenistan in London advised us not to take photos, as it is forbidden to photograph public/government buildings. Of course it was not obvious to us what the government is and is not, so I kept my camera clicking, mostly out of the car.
Ashgabat is like a perfectly laid out city from Anno or Simcity. Everything is white, from marble, buildings to cars only in white or silver. Bright sidewalks, traffic lights made of stainless steel, every tree and every shrub perfectly laid out and cut. Only 5 million people live in the entire country, which is about the size of Spain. The capital seems busy – but in a strange way. The buildings are mostly empty. There is a university, but no students. The very few people there seem like actors on the Truman Show. Soon the suspicion comes up that the whole town is just a big fake. It’s more illusion than reality.
After a dry week of heat in Iran, we spent the first night in a 5 star hotel with pool. One week in Iran had left us very thirsty. The pool was officially closed from 21 o’clock but our private pool party still went to 3 o’clock in the morning.
After two nights in Ashgabat we made our way to the crater of Derweze (or also: “The gate to hell”). During drilling in 1971, geologists happened to find an underground cave filled with natural gas. The ground under the drilling platform collapsed, creating a large hole with a diameter of about 70 meters. To avoid the release of the toxic gas, it was decided to burn it. Contrary to the original hope of geologists, the fire did not go out after a few days, but continues to be active 46 years later. The crater is about 5 km from the main road. The first top off-road occasion for our car.
Of course we got stuck in the sand several times, 4-5 times. Our car doesn’t have the perfect ground clearance for this kind of terrain 😉 . There were several local scammers on motocross bikes that were quite annoying. The trucks that passed the track for work would have pulled us out for free or 1-2€ but the motocross bikers kept telling the truckers to charge 20$, really to puke. Of course, we refused with thanks and then always blocked the track.
At some point by chance one or another rally car came by and helped us out of the jam free of charge.
After hours in the sandbox we could see the glow of the crater.
We camped right at the edge of the crater. Fortunately, the wind did not change at night, on the other side of the crater it was a bit warmer, almost sauna temperatures.
On the way back we gave our gas tank had its bell rung, so far everything is fine, but the fuel gauge now stays at 3/4. But have already done a test, rolled out on the last drop at a gas station and made 404km with a “full” tank.
And on the roads we’ve already easily had 6-7 times the rims rocked by potholes. A suitable hammer for bending to size is worth its weight in gold. So far Markus is the record holder with three rims at the same time.